June 16, 2008
El Estor to Languin on dirt roads
One of the most beautiful drives yet on this trip was from El Estor to Lanquin via the back roads. It's as if we're back in time. Most of these little villages in the mountains are self sufficient and work very hard just to barely survive. The men gather fire wood up in the hills every day and carry it back to their village sometimes walking for several hours. Some of the wood is used to cook or sell. The women make beautiful Mayan dresses by hand called " Traje" - Maya Traje is village-specific or language-group related.
The smell of burning wood, children running around waving at us as we drive by, no cars makes this ride our highlight in Guatemala. Sometimes we have to ask if we are on the right track, as some of the roads can be confusing without any signs. At one point we got to a bridge that was under construction, we had to wait for an hour while they fill up a hole. So we enjoyed a cold beer and chatted with the locals, always curious to find out where we are from and where we are going. Languin we said... "ohhhh!" one says, "long way" on the map it always looks short in kms, but on these dusty windy dirt roads, it's long!
Finally the bridge was good to go, we needed to unpack our gear at the other end to pass the bikes under a bar that was supporting the structure, but the local kids were happy to help us. Pack up the bikes again and off we go threw the thick jungle and high mountain pass, it was only 120kms, 5 hours later we pulled into the deep valley village of Languin. It was time to get some food in our tired bodies and find camp. It got dark fast and rain started to come down ( lucky we never seem to get the rain while riding!) so we found a nice Posada (room) for less the $3.00. You can find cheap rooms in Guatemala, which sometimes its nice so we can lock our gear, not worry about it and walk around to check things out.
Melchor de Mencos to Rio Dulce
Our first day in Guatemala began with driving on what was supposed to be a bad muddy road. Locals told us this road was horrible because of all the rain fall but once we were on it it wasn't too bad. If a car can drive on it then a dirt bike is no problem at all. The dirt lasted about an hour and then it switched to nice pavement. Our goal was to get to Rio Dulce but we fell short a few kms. After a long days of driving we stopped at a restaurant on the side of the road, had some food , beer and a nice chit chat with a seventy five year old man who was a little drunk. We kindly asked the owners if we could camp in the back yard and they said no problem. It was getting a little dark so we didn't want to chance driving at night. The next morning we woke at 5 am to chickens walking around our tent barking their heads off to let everyone know what time it was. It's time to get up. So we got up and had some coffee and b - fast and hit the road to Rio Dulce. We heard there was a "Castillo" of some sort there and we thought we'd check it out. but that ment leaving the bikes all packed up in a parking lot with someone else looking after them which we weren't to fond of. But we took a chance and did it anyways, we took our cameras and passports along and hoped for the best for the rest of our things. We didn't stay too long but long enough to visit every room in the castle and take a few pics. We got back to the bikes and it was all good. Everything was still in place just as we left it.
A quick Tire change
Light rain started to come down as we got closer to the border of Guatemala, Benque Viejo is were we would cross. Then rain came down harder. As we passed by a Tire Shop, I said to Cal, "lets see how much to change your tire " - He'd been logging this new tire I bought in Santiago since Playa... wanting to get more miles out of the old one. We tough it would be good to change it in Guatemala since we knew the roads would get muddy.
So we stopped, an old lady came out of the house and welcomed us with open harms, ( as all the people in Belize did )
They told us it would be 6 belize dollars!!! - $3.00 US, we couldn't believe it. We empty our pockets scrapping all our change. All we had left in Belize dollars was $3.00 - $1.50 US... the lady says " No Problem " That's OK. We really couldn't believe it. They would change our tire for that price. I got to work, putting up the bike on what we could find and take off the wheel.
Now the man gets to work and starts pounding on the side of the rim with a hammer, trying to get the old tire off. The disc brake rubbing flat on ground just waiting to see it get bent, Cal and I look at each other, thinking..."maybe you get what you pay for... " He's going to wreck your wheel man" I then grab the tire while he was looking for some tool to wedge between the tire and rim. I noticed he hadn't taken the air out of the tire! Shit... good thing he didn't get that tool in there, it would of blown in his face! then turn the rim around to the other side before he bent the disc brake.
So I take the air out, the guy looks at me with a smile - thinking " Wise man" he simply had forgotten to take it out????
Now he's got his tools, pounding away with the sledge hammer, gets the tire off - puts the new one one. All went well.
The rim was straight, no bent disc. I put the wheel back on the bike. We were not ready for the border run. Rain had stopped - good timing, but it was getting late and we needed to cross over the border and find camp.
We never know what to expect with borders, time, dangers, annoying paperwork. But this one all went well. After an hour all was done. The officers told us not to drive the road coming up at night, and that the road was in bad conditions because of the Tropical storm that went threw the week before. ..." Mucho Lodo" - lots of mud! " Banditos "
So we drove into Melchor de Mencos (border town) and found a cheap hotel that was recommended to us, not the fancy Riu Tequila of Playa del Carmen but the price was right at $3.00 each so looking for a camp spot was out of question.
A visit in Crooked Tree village, Belize
At last we're out of Mexico and moving on to a new country. Alain's friends from Squamish ( Todd and Christina ) told us if we were to go to Belize we had to stop in Crooked Tree Village and visit some friends of theirs. Since we didn't really plan to visit any place but Crooked Tree in the small country of Belize, we aimed to get there the first day. Nothing goes as planed when you travel and by the time we had crossed the border and made a long stretch south, it was getting dark and we were still about 15 miles outside Crooked Tree. We decided it would be easier to camp along the road and go find Claudette and Mitch the following day. We were lucky and fowned a nice spot to set up our tents for the night and not worry to much about any traffic coming near us.
The next morning we woke up pact our things and drove straight to Crooked Tree. Crooked Tree is a small village that inhabits 800 people and is the home of millions of birds. The popular thing to do there is bird watching. It's actually a bird sanctuary but our time spent there we didn't see many bird as it wasn't the best time of year. The recent storm in Honduras had made quite the impact in Belize and most of the South was flooded. Locals told us to be aware that a few bridges were none existent and that water was really high at some places. Luckily we didn't have any troubles with water or bridges the entire time we spent there.
After asking a few locals in town where Claudette lived, we pulled up to her property on the lake and told her Todd and Christina sent us over to say hello. Well I can't really describe in words how happy this lady was to here that her Canadian friends from three years ago were till thinking of her and sending more friends to see her. She invited us to stay with her for as long as we wanted so we pitched our tents and made ourselves at home. The kids were in school that morning and when they came home for lunch and saw the motor bikes they immediately got excited and asked us millions of questions. Their memory of Todd and Christina was like as if it was yesterday that they had visited them.
When lunch break was over Al and I gave them all a ride back to school and then spent all afternoon with Claudette and her friend driving around the village through every little short cut we could find.
Later that evening Claudette's husband came home from work and joined us for the best home cooked fried chicken I have tasted in my life. We spent the week end with the familly and enjoyed true hospitality at its best. These people were not rich with materialistic things but rich in love for each other and lived their every day life with a smile on their faces. Alain and I took some money out of our fundraiser to help out with food for the time we were there. We also left them one of our hammock since the kids loved it and was a great place for the afternoon nap while Claudette could have some quiet time. The kids didn't want us to leave but we made sure they knew that when monday came rolling around we were going to have to move on to the next destination. It's always a little hard to leave certain places after you've spent so many good moments and especially with kids but thats how traveling is. Mitch told them it was hard for the kids to see Todd and Christina leave after spending two weeks there so we tried to avoid the same situation happening twice. It also helped that the kids were three years older and had gone through this before so when the time came they were ready and we left with no tears out of anyone. Sometimes I wish I could of stayed longer but I'm glad we left when we did. Next stop Guatemala.......
Tulum Mexico
June 1st till june 4th
After our 10 day Holiday from the holiday, Cal and I were anxious to get back on the road get out of the tourist trap and search for a little beach time by Tulum so we can enjoy a last couple days in the ocean before entering Belize and Guatemala.
Another shock....
After hearing from people this was the backpackers place to go... not so much anymore, Tulum is starting to boom like Playa.
The Beach fronts are all expensive little bungalows, the beaches are spectacular, turquoise blue water but again was no spot to camp around Tulum. When we arrived rain started to come down, so we need a place to camp soon. The only place we found was an 8 dollars a night (what they call campsite) under some trees. - A real rip off! - so where do the budget backpackers stay?? in town for $30 a night, Not so much budget Mexican style.
The next day was still grey, A tropical Storm was hitting Honduras and Belize at the time and we were getting the tail end of it. We decided to walk along the beach and see if we could sneak in the Ruins of Tulum... and we did, a trail led us along the rocks and into the Ruins, we popped over the rock wall, tourists looking at us thinking... where the hell are these guys coming from??
But hey... we saved 80 pesos!! so we didnt feel so bad about our $8 camp fee, as we were able to leave our bikes there while we visited the Ruins for free!!
As we were about to leave, we spotted an internet cafe so we decided to stop for a good coffee and email season. While Cal was working on the computer, he started to chat with a girl that was curious about our journey, so they talked for a while and next thing we knew, we had a free place to stay on the beach, she was from New York living in Tulum and teaching yoga. So we took her offer and extented our time in Tulum by an extra couple days and enjoy more beach time as the sun finally came out.
One morning, we woke up with the sound of a crying cat... the owner of the house was screaming, it was 6 am... wondering what had happen, the poor cat had been the pray of a Boa constructor of about 1 meter long! Poor thing, Jungle and cats don't mix well.
so it was time to leave and make our way to Belize...
Holiday from a Holiday
May 16th till june 1st
We arrived in Playa Del Carmen with a culture shock, Americana's land... all inclusive resorts, bars, gift shops. We spent several hours looking a spot to camp, living at our dirtbag style, we couldn't think of a hotel room. Drove to what they call the local beach in hope to find a hidden spot to camp. Bunch of drunk men welcomed us, so we looked at each other... mmm... not a good spot. We even drove 15kms south of Playa, and no luck, as all the beach fronts are full of ALL Inclusive hotels.!
I picked up a brochure with cheap rooms, so we start looking at plan B, found a perfect little family run hotel close to the beach and downtown. But the little price came with it at 35$ a night! the cheapest in town... Budget... blown big time.
We had no choice to stay in Playa for several days as I was catching a flight to Santiago Chili to visit a good friend of mine and Cal was going to spend 14 days at an all inclusive ( thanks to his friend Yvonne) and attend a wedding. Another nice thing is we got Suzuki in Playa to tune up the bikes for the next leg of the journey, adjusting our valves... now our bikes run like new. I was also able to leave my bike secured with them while I went to Chili.
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