Editor and Gear Reviewer Holly Edelson was awarded the Shipton - Tilman Grant for a solo winter unsupported sea kayak expedition through 1600 km of the Inside Passage. She is an elected Fellow of The Explorer's Club for her graduate research on arctic wolves, caribou, moose and bear at the institute of Arctic Biology. Holly's solo kayak expedition along some of the roughest areas of the Alaskan coast were firsts or rarely done solo, at a pace of 65 - 100 km per day. She is an ice and alpine climber having climbed around the Antarctic peninsula, the Alaska and Hayes Ranges (including Denali), the Alps, Himalayas, and soloed mountains in eastern Alaska. She began exploring on many 800 - 1600 km solo bike expeditions across Alaska and the Yukon , summer and winter, covering 130 - 290 km a day, camping in her bivy sack in the snow. She has biked through the tundra in winter (-45 F ) and raced canoes 1000km in 4 days in the Yukon. Holly has given lectures and workshops in New York City on winter kayaking, winter survival strategies, solo expeditions, navigation, tides and currents, and expedition planning.
January 30, 2008
Editor/ Founder of SummitJournal.com
Holly Edelson
Editor and Gear Reviewer Holly Edelson was awarded the Shipton - Tilman Grant for a solo winter unsupported sea kayak expedition through 1600 km of the Inside Passage. She is an elected Fellow of The Explorer's Club for her graduate research on arctic wolves, caribou, moose and bear at the institute of Arctic Biology. Holly's solo kayak expedition along some of the roughest areas of the Alaskan coast were firsts or rarely done solo, at a pace of 65 - 100 km per day. She is an ice and alpine climber having climbed around the Antarctic peninsula, the Alaska and Hayes Ranges (including Denali), the Alps, Himalayas, and soloed mountains in eastern Alaska. She began exploring on many 800 - 1600 km solo bike expeditions across Alaska and the Yukon , summer and winter, covering 130 - 290 km a day, camping in her bivy sack in the snow. She has biked through the tundra in winter (-45 F ) and raced canoes 1000km in 4 days in the Yukon. Holly has given lectures and workshops in New York City on winter kayaking, winter survival strategies, solo expeditions, navigation, tides and currents, and expedition planning.
Editor and Gear Reviewer Holly Edelson was awarded the Shipton - Tilman Grant for a solo winter unsupported sea kayak expedition through 1600 km of the Inside Passage. She is an elected Fellow of The Explorer's Club for her graduate research on arctic wolves, caribou, moose and bear at the institute of Arctic Biology. Holly's solo kayak expedition along some of the roughest areas of the Alaskan coast were firsts or rarely done solo, at a pace of 65 - 100 km per day. She is an ice and alpine climber having climbed around the Antarctic peninsula, the Alaska and Hayes Ranges (including Denali), the Alps, Himalayas, and soloed mountains in eastern Alaska. She began exploring on many 800 - 1600 km solo bike expeditions across Alaska and the Yukon , summer and winter, covering 130 - 290 km a day, camping in her bivy sack in the snow. She has biked through the tundra in winter (-45 F ) and raced canoes 1000km in 4 days in the Yukon. Holly has given lectures and workshops in New York City on winter kayaking, winter survival strategies, solo expeditions, navigation, tides and currents, and expedition planning.
All you need is Red Bull
Moonlight Mission
We decided to go on a Moonlight Marathon. We climbed 800 meters from 8 pm to 9 am. It was a lot of fun climbing under full moon. We did a photo shoot as well. Al got really creative and pulled out some really wicked shots. most of them are long exposures.
Gravity's Test was the third climb we did and was by far the wildest night climb we'd done. It took me a while to motivate myself to get on this icicle. I'm glad I did though.
Moonlight Mission
We decided to go on a Moonlight Marathon. We climbed 800 meters from 8 pm to 9 am. It was a lot of fun climbing under full moon. We did a photo shoot as well. Al got really creative and pulled out some really wicked shots. most of them are long exposures. 
Gravity's Test was the third climb we did and was by far the wildest night climb we'd done. It took me a while to motivate myself to get on this icicle. I'm glad I did though.
At this moment in time I'm about to place my last screw and head for the finish. The only problem was that I accidently dropped my screw and was left with no other screw about 2 meters from my last placement and about 8 meters from the top. I had no choice but to keep going and run it out. I remember getting in a certain zone that I don't see to often. If I were to fall from the top it wouldn't of been good. Luckily I held it together and made it safely. I'll always remember that 10 minutes of my life.
January 16, 2008
Jay Smith and Kitty Calhoun
Kitty climbing Le Pissoir WI5
We've been climbing quite a bit with Jay and Kitty. Here we're in the Ice Park getting a little training done for future big routes. Kitty's climbing a nice long route right of the upper bridge. 
Jay Smith on Mixed Emotions M6 WI6 5.9
Here's Jay on the second pitch of mixed emotions. A very thin rock and ice start. We were happy Jay was there to lead the whole thing cause it definitly took experience and balls to pull off what he did. He placed nuts, cams and pitons before even touching the ice. Once he got on the ice it wasn't over. Very technical thin ice all the way up to the first anchor, which was a combination of a piton, wire nut and a screw. I'm glad it was him and not me. But watching him in the zone was very inspiring and motivating to learn more about mix climbing and the techniques used to do so. Alain and I felt like we were on a Alpine route. Very cool route.
Ice Climbing under the stars
Gravitational Pull WI6
We climbed this route in the middle of the night which was a blast. I got to climb my first really hard pitch in the dark and Alain took some wicked photos as you can see. The funny thing was that i got about 25 meters up there and my head lamp fell off my helmet and I was about 2 meters above my last screw. I was left in the dark in an awkward but yet reasonably good position. I kept calm and place a screw in what I thought was good ice. It turned out it was cause I sat on it lit up a smoke and untied my rope , lowered it to Alain and then he tied my head lamp to the rope and sent it off to me .....I finished my smoke of course and took of for the summit.........
We climbed this route in the middle of the night which was a blast. I got to climb my first really hard pitch in the dark and Alain took some wicked photos as you can see. The funny thing was that i got about 25 meters up there and my head lamp fell off my helmet and I was about 2 meters above my last screw. I was left in the dark in an awkward but yet reasonably good position. I kept calm and place a screw in what I thought was good ice. It turned out it was cause I sat on it lit up a smoke and untied my rope , lowered it to Alain and then he tied my head lamp to the rope and sent it off to me .....I finished my smoke of course and took of for the summit.........
First Ascent of Gravity's Test WI6+, Calixte LeBlanc and Alain Denis
A 35 meter free hanging pillar. Over Hang to vertical climbing . As I looked at this wild piece of ice i thought to myself why do I climb?????????? I didn't really know what to tell myself so I just got my shit ready and climbed up. When I got to the top the feeling inside was more than clear. Nothing beets the feeling of success when it comes down to climbing.......
Here comes the pump fest.......
Here they are : Gravitational Pull WI6 on the left and Gravity's Test WI6+ on the right.
Cal having a sip of hot chocolate, before heading out to Gravity's Rainbow WI5 on the left.
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